The first frost of the year is always a sight to behold, especially when it comes out of nowhere and completely covers trees, plants, and flowers with that light, snow-white crust.
Peperomia frost is a small, evergreen plant native to the rainforests of Brazil, and although it sounds like it might be yet another lush plant that fills spaces with jungle-like vibes, it portrays a totally different feel.
Like a fall frost just before the start of winter, Peperomia caperata Frost is known for its silvery-green leaves colored with a dust-like white that resembles freezing leaves on a cold morning.
It’s an excellent choice as an indoor plant that most beginner gardeners will find easy to grow, and it adds a dash of frigid outdoor feel to your indoor space, even in the dense heat of summer.
Table of Contents
Peperomia Frost Overview
Scientific Name | Peperomia caperata Frost |
Common Names | Peperomia Frost, Silver Frost Peperomia / Peperomia Silver Frost, Silver Peperomia |
Genus | Peperomia |
Family | Piperaceae Family |
Native Habitat | Brazil, South America |
Size and Dimensions (Mature) | 6 to 12 inches tall as houseplants |
Distinguishing Features | Heart-shaped leaves with light silvery-green color and dark green veins |
In-Home Placement | East or west-facing window with bright indirect light |
When Should I Propagate Peperomia Frost?
If you are growing your Peperomia Frost outdoors, the best time to propagate is in late spring or the beginning of summer when it is actively growing. The summer months will allow your peperomia to push out enough energy to build a new root system without leaving the rest of the cuttings high and dry.
You should avoid propagating in the winter months when the plant is dormant. Dormancy occurs when the days get shorter and the temperatures drop. As you might guess from those two indicators, indoor plants don’t always go completely dormant, especially when growing them under an artificial grow light to give them enough light.
Still, if they rely on direct or indirect light from your windows, be mindful of their growth rate. The growth rate of Peperomia Frost will slow when it begins to see less sunlight throughout the day.
How to Propagate Peperomia Frost in Soil
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Propagating Peperomia frost through soil is the most convenient method because you don’t have to change the water medium every week and transfer the plant after root development. Instead, you can directly insert the cuttings into the soil and wait for new growth.
The only major con with soil propagation is that you’ll need to wait longer for roots to appear than if you propagate in water.
What You Need:
- Standard potting soil mix
- Peat moss
- A clean pot with a drainage hole
- A sterile pair of scissors
- Rooting hormone (optional)
- Clean water
Offset Division
- Pick a baby plant about 3 inches in height with sufficient roots.
- Carefully remove the mother plant from the pot.
- Look for the node that connects the mother plant and the baby plant.
- Using sterile scissors, cut the node.
- Place the new plantlet in a pot with a standard potting mix with peat moss.
- Plant the plantlets separately to avoid contamination.
- Water the plantlets generously and place them in a warm spot.
- Once you see noticeable growth, consider repotting your Peperomia Frost into a bigger pot with fresh soil.
Stem Cuttings
- Pick a healthy stem with 2 or 3 nodes.
- Cut the stem from the mother plant using sterile scissors just above the last leaf node.
- Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone powder before planting.
- Place the cutting in soil with the cut end down and the leaves raised.
- Water generously for a week or two.
- Place in a warm place with no direct sunlight to help the cutting recover.
- After 6-10 weeks, the roots should start to grow.
- Transfer to a larger container when the roots have developed.
Leaf Cuttings
- Pick a healthy leaf halfway along the stem, as it is most likely to have the right age for propagating.
- Snap off the petiole from the stem to take off the leaf.
- Remove the petiole using clean, sharp scissors as close to the base as possible.
- Cut the thick leaves into half in a crosswise direction.
- Alternatively, you can dip the wounded side of the leaves into a rooting hormone powder.
- Place the leaf cutting into a shallow pot with soil mixed with the wounded side facing the soil.
- Keep the soil moist by covering it in a plastic bag with small holes.
- After 8 weeks, offsets should start to develop.
- Transfer the offsets into a small pot with moist potting mix once they are 1-2 inches tall.
Can You Propagate Peperomia Frost in Water?
Peperomia frost can easily be propagated by stem or leaf cutting in water. Just place the cut end tip in the water, and you should start to see hair roots in 6-10 weeks. Be sure to place the cuttings in a warm place away from direct light.
Bright, indirect light from an east-facing window should do the trick.
How to Propagate Peperomia Frost in Water
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Water propagation is the fastest way to develop roots in Peperomia, so this is the most common method of propagation for home gardeners. However, it requires changing the water medium from time to time, so be sure you are available to do so during the rooting process.
I don’t mind the extra step of transferring the plantlets into a new pot because I get to see the growing baby plants. Some people don’t want to go through the extra effort, though, so if that’s the case, it’s probably best to propagate in soil.
What You Need:
- A small container
- A sterile pair of scissors
- Rooting hormone (optional)
- Clean water
Stem Cuttings
- Pick a healthy stem with 2 or 3 nodes.
- Cut the stem from the mother plant using sterile scissors just above the last leaf node.
- Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone powder before putting it in water.
- Place the cutting in water with the leaves raised above the water.
- Place in a warm place with no direct sunlight to help the cutting recover.
- After 4-5 weeks, the roots should start to grow.
- Plant the cutting into the soil, or wait a few months for plantlets to appear.
- Either way, once the plantlets are 1-2 inches tall, replant them separately into a new container.
Potted Exotics Pro Tip: Don’t mix your rooting hormone with the water you plan to propagate in. Doing so can cause the water to gel and prevent sufficient respiration for the plant to grow new roots.
Leaf Cuttings
- Pick a healthy leaf halfway along the stem, as it is most likely to have the right age for propagating.
- Snap off the petiole from the stem to take off the leaf.
- Remove the petiole using clean, sharp scissors as close to the base as possible.
- Cut the leaves into half in a crosswise direction.
- Alternatively, you can dip the wounded side of the leaves into a rooting hormone powder.
- Place the leaf-cutting into the water with the bottom half raised above.
- Change the water every week until the root emerges to prevent bacterial growth.
- Transfer the leaf cutting into the soil once it grows up to an inch in length.
- New plants or offsets should start to appear after 4-6 weeks.
Keep the plantlets in moist soil in the first few weeks after propagation. Keep it in a warm, humid spot away from direct sunlight to encourage root growth in the form of small root systems.
Peperomia Frost Care and Growing Conditions
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Peperomia frost, not to be confused with similar but different types of peperomia, like Watermelon Peperomia, is easy to grow, but it still requires the right conditions to thrive. You can follow these care instructions to ensure lush green leaves on a healthy, beautiful plant all year round.
Soil
Peperomia Frost grows best in slightly acidic, well-drained soil between pH 6 to 6.6. Use a high amount of peat moss to achieve the proper acidity, as peat moss has a pH of 3.0 – 4.0 – which is relatively acidic for plant growth.
A standard potting mix will work fine if you add extra peat or pumice to enhance drainage and lower the pH.
Potted Exotics Pro Tip: We have found success mixing our own soils that have a 1:1 ratio of peat moss and perlite or equal amounts of peat moss, pearlite, and orchard bark. This keeps the soil chock-full of organic matter, regulates pH, and allows good drainage.
Water
Peperomia frost plants are tropical plants that can grow on rock cracks and do not need much water to survive. Still, it’s a good idea to keep the top of the soil from drying out. Alternatively, avoid too much watering to prevent fungal diseases and problems with plant respiration.
Temperature
The ideal temperature range for Peperomia plants is 60 to 80 °F (16-27 °C). They cannot tolerate cold air directly from air conditioning vents, so be mindful when placing these plants around your home. Also, despite its “winter-friendly” name, Peperomia Frost cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 °F (10 °C) and has no frost hardiness.
If you are keeping your Peperomia outdoors in the Summer or Fall, be sure to move it back inside before temperatures drop in the autumn.
Did You Know!? Peperomia plants are also called radiator plants because they love warm weather. Owners often keep them near or under vents during winter, as warm drafts keep them perky and pleasant.
Light
Peperomia plants are super fond of low light. In the wild, they live under tree canopies, so they grow best indoors in an east or north-facing window with less-harsh morning light and little to no direct afternoon sunlight. I like to observe where the sunlight hits my indoor spaces throughout the day and year so that I can keep my houseplant collection thriving all year.
Potted Exotics Pro Tip: Keep a houseplant journal log and document what your plants like or don’t like. Log the light exposure, watering schedules, feedings, and more. Soon, you’ll have personal data that you can use to keep your indoor garden thriving.
Humidity
The ideal humidity is 50%, but it should be fine as low as 40%. It can also tolerate more than 90%, just like in its natural habitat in the Brazilian rainforests.
Bathrooms and kitchens where humidity is naturally high throughout the day are good options, but you don’t want to limit your creativity or desires. And to be fair, not all bathrooms and conditions share the same ambient conditions.
Instead, if you lack humidity in an area of your home, use a humidifier for plants or a DIY pebble tray to keep the ambient humidity levels around your plant.
While it’s hard to condition large rooms or open spaces, it’s relatively simple to keep humidity adequate directly around your plants.
USDA Hardiness Zone
You can grow peperomia frost outdoors throughout the year if you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 10-12. Just be mindful when the colder months are approaching, as a quick overnight frost can kill your plant.
If you live in a shoulder region and still want to keep your Peperomia Frost outdoors, consider a hanging basket for quick transportation.
Fertilizer
Peperomia frost will grow just fine without chemical fertilizers, but to keep its foliage lush, use a 10-10-10 complete mix. Fertilize once a month during the early spring and summer growing season, but start with half to ¾ of the recommended dose to ensure you don’t over-fertilize an already hardy soil.
Do not fertilize during the winter when the plant is not actively growing. If you’re using a liquid fertilizer, dilute it into half strength as indicated in the packaging. This will help curb any negative response to the feeding without completely destroying your plant or its foliage.
Apply liquid fertilizers after watering to keep it from washing away and maintain even distribution throughout the soil.
I prefer to use a slow-release granule fertilizer with Peperomia plants, but plenty of others have success with different feeding methods. Choose at will!
Potting and Repotting Peperomia Frost
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Peperomia frost is a slow grower, so it can remain happy for long periods with regular feeding and fresh soil. You don’t need to change the size of the pot too often. Still, if the mature plant starts to become root-bound, you can move it to a larger pot (about an inch wider in diameter should work).
Repotting is typical within the first year or two after establishment.
- Carefully remove the plant from the old pot, preventing it from damaging the roots.
- Remove the soil debris from the roots as much as possible.
- Fill the new pot with soil and place the plant in the center.
- Gently press the soil to keep the plant firm.
- Although optional, apply fertilizer granules about 1-2 inches away from the base.
- Water the plant generously.
- Keep the plant in the shade for a few weeks to recover.
Common Problems with Peperomia Frost
As with any houseplant, Peperomia Frost comes with its challenges. No worries, though. With the right care and precautions, you should be able to keep pests and diseases at bay.
Root Rot
Root rot in Peperomia can be caused by excessive watering or fungi diseases such as Phytophthora, Pythium, or both, and the symptoms may include yellowing of leaves and leaf drop. The causes can be prevented by regulating soil drainage through the bottom of the pot and avoiding too much watering in the first place.
If infected with root rot, remove the affected roots and replace the soil. Also, consider using a copper-based fungicide to prevent the spread of the disease.
Spider Mites
Spider mites are tiny white and yellow spots you see on the surface of plant leaves that cause white spot discoloration. When spider mites invade Peperomia, you can spray the leaves with water and a non-detergent soap mixture or neem oil solution for the best results.
Make sure to cover the plant to avoid reinfection, and keep a close eye to ensure you solve the infestation.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs are white, cotton-like insects that appear on the underside of Peperomia leaves. They cause the leaves to wrinkle and appear unhealthy and might even cause some wilt to occur.
Mealybug infestation can be eradicated through the application of neem oil solution. Apply a generous amount to cover the whole plant and put the plants away from sunlight to avoid burning the leaves.
Scales
Scales are tiny, brown clumps of insects that cling to the surface of Peperomia leaves and stems. If infestations occur, scrape off the scales and apply insecticidal soaps to keep reinfection.
Fungal Infections
Most fungal infections cause yellow or brown spots, or a combination of both, that spreads on the leaves. If infections occur, remove the infected leaves immediately and keep them away from other plants. Most fungal infections are caused by too much watering that encourages growth.
To treat fungal infections, remove excess water by changing the soil and spraying the plant with a fungicide that contains chlorothalonil. Place the plants under shade until the fungicide dried up to prevent burning the leaves.
Creative Ways to Display Peperomia Frost at Home
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Plant Stool
Place the plant on a plant stool or stand to add a natural element to a minimalist bedroom. It will also look stunning near entrances or hallways, especially in areas where the light can bounce off the frosted leaves.
Colorful Pots
The versatile color of Peperomia Frost can complement any pot color. Use a white pot for a soft and elegant look or an orange pot to match a tropical-themed room. With a good eye and creative placement, Peperomia Frost fills out any space with class.
Bathroom Decor
These popular houseplants are perfect for decorating bathrooms without taking up too much space. Place it on the bathroom tabletop or the toilet tank with an oil diffuser for a clean and fresh look. Hanging baskets also add a unique accent to boring corners with no decoration.
Other FAQ About Peperomia Frost
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Does Peperomia Frost Grow Flowers?
The Peperomia Frost plant produces small, greenish-brown tail-like spikes that some people find unattractive. You can pinch off the spikes if you don’t like the look, but they should start to wither after a week or two anyways. We don’t recommend removing them.
They usually appear after 1 to 2 years of growth and indicate that you have provided the right growing conditions for the plant. We are not part of the bunch that finds them unattractive, and since they signify a happy houseplant, keeping them on is a badge of honor for us.
Can you grow Peperomia Frost from Seeds?
Peperomia Frost produces dust-like seeds from its flower spikes, which are really hard to collect. Most Peperomia species self-fertilize, so they can produce viable seeds at will. Still, propagation is probably your best bet if you want to reproduce your plant collection.
Is it Better to Propagate Peperomia in Water or Soil?
The chances of success in propagating Peperomia frost are higher in water than in soil. Rooting is also faster in water than in soil, but the propagating material should be considered. You must be diligent when propagating in water for success.
Can You Propagate Peperomia from Leaf in Water?
Yes, you can propagate peperomia leaves from the water, but you must change the water every week to prevent bacterial growth. Some even opt to change the water every 4-5 days to ensure they don’t run into root rot or bacterial issues.
Why Are My Peperomia Cuttings Not Rooting in Water?
Although rooting in water is the easiest way to propagate, it’s not always the right choice – or successful for that matter. Your Peperomia cuttings could be too old or young to develop a new plant, or you may not have the right number of nodes available.
How Many Hours of Light Do Peperomia Cuttings Need to Root?
Peperomia cuttings root well with 12 hours or more of light per day. If there is little light during winter months, it can grow under a fluorescent light or an artificial growing light. When in doubt, try to mimic its natural growing conditions.
Is Peperomia Frost Toxic?
Fortunately, the plants are non-toxic to humans and animals, so they are safe around children and babies. Still, caution should still be given to those unfamiliar with the species because it is not edible and may upset the stomach if ingested.
Also, the sap may cause irritation, so avoid touching the plant or use protective gloves when handling the plants.